Photo/Wikimedia Even in February, the ice conditions are iffy. We’re driving through the Kennebec River towns north of Merrymeeting Bay, looking for fishing camps. Catching a bucket of smelt is our goal. But the frozen surfaces are thinner than usual this year, where there’s ice at all.

Photographer Peter Frank Edwards and I drive north from Bowdoinham through Dresden, Pittston, and Randolph. Thin, silvery-pink fish often not much longer than an outstretched hand, rainbow smelt are known to live primarily in saltwater bays, but spawn in fresh water—famously, under the ice of the Kennebec River. For a couple of winters, we’ve been wondering about the ice fishing shacks we sometimes see clustered on parts of the river. Neither of us has experienced the tradition of fishing for smelt before. We’re eager to get on the ice.

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