Michael Leviton arranges fillets of golden alewives over a scoop of ramp remoulade, then drizzles ramp vinaigrette along the plate’s edge at Lumiere, his upscale restaurant recently ranked 5th for top food by Zagat Boston. The humble alewife, a fish so pedestrian it is used as lobster bait, has been elevated. It will be featured next week at a $60 per person dinner.

Until the turn of the last century, alewives were a diet staple in many coastal communities, and a measure of the ecological health of waterways. Today, alewives can be commercially fished only along the Eastern Seaboard in Maine.

Read more about delicious alewives here.

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