Providence

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The upper Providence River, which flows between the city’s downtown and historic East Side,
can be accessed in a small boat or kayak. Photo by Tom Croke

IT WASN’T TOO LONG AGO THAT THE ONLY THINGS I KNEW ABOUT PROVIDENCE INVOLVED CROOKED POLITICIANS AND THE CITY’S LARGE NUMBER OF . . . UM, GENTLEMEN’S CLUBS. HOWEVER, THE ONCE-MALIGNED CAPITAL OF RHODE ISLAND HAS UNDERGONE A MAJOR RENAISSANCE. THE CITY IS SLOWLY RECOGNIZING THE VALUE OF ITS WATERFRONT AND THE PROVIDENCE RIVER AS MAJOR HIGHLIGHTS, AND IS STARTING TO MAKE AN EFFORT TO ATTRACT BOATERS. THE WORK OF ENVIRONMENTAL GROUP SAVE THE BAY, WHOSE HEADQUARTERS IS LOCATED ON A FORMER DUMP AT FIELDS POINT JUST SOUTH OF THE CITY, HAS ALSO DONE MUCH TO RAISE AWARENESS OF THE AQUATIC TREASURES THAT LIE AT THE CITY’S DOORSTEP, AND T HELP CLEAN UP AND RESTORE THE BAY’S WATERS.

Yet Providence still doesn’t offer much for visiting boaters. Downtown Marina, located behind the hurricane barrier, has but a handful of transient slips. There are a couple more slips on the Seekonk River at the Oyster House Marina and the East Providence Yacht Club, but otherwise boaters have to drop anchor or grab a slip or mooring a few miles downriver. That’s also where you’ll need to look if you need fuel up or work done on your boat.

Providence Chart

Sat map

The city’s major planning document—a text called Providence 2020—has called for more access to be created for recreational boaters, but that’s been slow to happen, especially given the economy. Officials realize that lower Narragansett Bay is maxed out with marinas and that the Providence area is the logical place for growth. Providing access to boaters would certainly help business in Providence, and there are plenty of things for boaters to enjoy.


Joggers and cyclists enjoy the East Bay Bike Path, which runs from East Providence to Bristol.
Photo by Tom Croke

On the East side of the river, cyclists can pedal along the scenic 13-mile East Bay Bike Path, which runs from East Providence to Bristol. The path will eventually cross the river at India Point Park, allowing easy access to downtown. India Point Park itself has athletic fields, a wonderful waterside playground and a scenic walkway that ends at the Community Boating Center, where residents can come to sail and row on the river.


The three stacks of an electric powerplant tower over Downtown Marina,
just inside the hurricane barrrier. Photo by Tom Croke

Just beyond India Point Park is the rejuvenated neighborhood of Fox Point, which has a laidback, college-town feel about it. Fliers covering telephone poles advertise lectures, theater and music shows, activist meetings and restaurants. The aromas from nearby restaurants fill the air.

Follow the waterfront westward, and you’ll find yourself on the east bank of the Providence River, just inside the hurricane barrier. The riprap here is a popular shore-fishing spot, where some surprisingly large stripers are taken in the early season. Nearby, shops, clubs and restaurants, all within easy walking distance of the venerable Downtown Marina, represent the city’s new face.

Talk to local businesspeople about what spawned the city’s renaissance and many will credit the extensive construction. Others may mention all the new restaurants. However, almost everyone will point to one thing: WaterFire. Several times each summer and into the fall, WaterFire organizers light fires in roughly 100 braziers running down the middle of the Providence River as it flows through the heart of the city. Artist Barnaby Evans started the events more than 10 years ago to attract people to Providence River Park, which comprises more than a mile of scenic walkways and 7 acres of open space along the river.


Once buried under freight yards, the Providence River is now the scene of gondola rides and WaterFire displays.
Photo by Tom Croke

access this part of the Providence River. Indeed, idling or paddling north along the river in a small boat or kayak is a great way to see the city, and some businesses have docks where boaters can tie up briefly. Just be sure to keep an eye on the water level, as the river is quite shallow in spots, especially at low tide. When the WaterFire braziers are burning, though, the river is off-limits to the boating public.

On a WaterFire nights, the burning fires along the water look like something out of medieval Europe. Adding to that feeling are candlelit chandeliers hung along the walkways beneath the Exchange Street and Waterplace Bridges. In fact, I have to think that if WaterFire were held in a major world city, it would be as much of a must-do experience as visiting the Eiffel Tower in Paris or walking the Charles Bridge in Prague. Of course, Providence doesn’t have the cachet of Paris or Prague . . . well, at least not yet.

GETTING THERE:
Chart: NOAA 13225

Providence Chart

Head north through Narragansett Bay’s East or West Passages and enter the mouth of Providence River between Conimicut Point and Conimicut Light, then follow the well-marked channel north while keeping an eye on the 3 smokestacks behind the Fox Point Hurricane Barrier and the new Rte. 195 bridge. Providence is a major shipping port, and the river is very busy with commercial traffic and recreational fishermen drifting the channel.

Note: When LPG tankers are entering the port, recreational boats must keep beyond the security zone, which extends from one mile ahead of the vessel, 200 yards astern, and 500 yards on either side. Similarly, when tankers are docked, recreational vessels must maintain a distance of at least 200 yards.

Dockage, Moorings & Service:

  • Transient slips near Providence can be hard to come by, and the nearest place to get fuel is Port Edgewood Marina (see below) and the marinas on Bullock Cove.

  • The closest marina to the city is Downtown Marina (401-440-9280), located to starboard after clearing the Fox Point hurricane barrier. They have a handful of slips for transients. Call ahead for availability.
  • East Providence Yacht Club (401-434-0161), near the mouth of the Seekonk River, normally has 3 transient slips for $40 a night. Call ahead for availability.
  • Oyster House Marina (401-434-0400), located next to the Yacht Club at the mouth of the Seekonk River, is a small family-owned marina with a few transient slips for small boats. Call ahead.
  • Port Edgewood Marina (401-941-2000), located about a mile south of the city, on the west side of the Providence River, usually has a good number of transient slips available for $2 per foot per night and 2 moorings for $1 a foot per night. Port Edgewood is also the closest place to Providence to get fuel or repairs. Be careful entering the channel here, as it is bordered by shallow mud flats.
  • Pawtuxet Cove Marina (401-941-2000), is run by the same company as the Port Edgewood Marina, and is located roughly another 3 miles south. It offers a few transient slips at $2 a foot per night.
  • Brewer Cove Haven Marina (401-246-1600) on Bullock Cove in Barrington, is a large, full-service marina offering fuel, transient slips, haulout and repair. (See New England Boating’s destination on Barrington for more info.)

Anchorages:

There are several approved anchorages in the Providence River. On the east side of the river, anchorages are available in Bullock Cove (East Providence maintains a free guest mooring in the cove), north and south of Sabin Point, off Crescent Park Beach and just behind Pomham Rocks Lighthouse.

On the west side, a good anchorage exists just south of the channel entrance to Pawtuxet Cove, between the long breakwater and the main shipping channel.

Harbormaster:

Launch Ramps:

  • The best option for trailer-boaters wishing to access the Providence area and the Upper Bay is the ramp at Haines State Park (401-253-7482) on Bullocks Cove in Barrington. This concrete double ramp features floating docks, restrooms and ample parking, and affords quick access to the Upper Bay. The ramp offers 3 feet of depth at mean low water.
  • Gano Park Launch: This boat launch facility in Providence opened in May 2014, and provides access to the lower Seekonk River from the Providence side for trailered boats, as well as kayaks, SUPs and canoes. The facility features a concrete ramp, a tie-up float and free parking for 17 rigs. After launching, boaters can either head north up the Seekonk or south to the Providence River and Narragansett Bay.
  • A free, handicapped-accessible state ramp with fixed docks can be found at Bold Point Park in East Providence, near the mouth of the Seekonk River. Launching at low tide can be problematic for deeper draft boats. Also, parking in the dirt lot is limited on summer weekends.
  • A small ramp with float and limited parking is located at Sabin Point Park, also in East Providence.
  • On the west side of the river, Salters Grove State Park offers a small launch ramp suitable for kayaks and skiffs just south of Pawtuxet Cove.

Getting Around:

Taxi Service:

Biking:

  • Bicyclists can access the towns of Barrington, Warren and Bristol by biking along the 13-mile East Bay Bike Path.

Where to Eat:

  • The Hot Club (401-861-9007): Located just inside the hurricane barrier to starboard. Offers dock-and-dine.
  • The Chowder House (401-369-7000): Also located just inside the hurricane barrier to starboard.
  • Brick Valley Pizza (401-623-8931): Pizza place on Bridge Street, close to Downtown Marina in the Fox Point area.
  • Oasis Café (401-351-5100): Small café on Bridge Street close to Downtown Marina.

Things to See & Do:

  • Thousands of people come to Providence to see WaterFire, when bonfires blaze through downtown along the Providence River. Events take place several times each summer and fall, so check the website for details.
  • The Roger Williams Park Zoo (401-785-3510) has more than 1,000 animals from around the world. Near the zoo is New England’s largest indoor public display garden, the Roger Williams Park Botanical Center (401-785-9450; www.providenceri.com/botanical-center).
  • Gondola rides through the heart of downtown Providence can be arranged through La Gondola Inc. (401-421-8877).
  • Fans of history and architecture should take a stroll around College Hill, home of both Brown University and the Rhode Island School of Design. This historic area was originally settled in 1636, and that’s also where you’ll find Thayer Street, an area of restaurants and shops popular with the local college crowd.
  • For theater, check out the Trinity Repertory Theater Company (401-351-4242), considered one of the country’s best regional theaters.
  • If you like to bike, take a ride along the scenic East Bay Bike Path, which skirts the East Bay shore from East Providence to Bristol and runs through the heart of Barrington and Warren.

Where to Stay:

General Information:

Photo Gallery

Just off the East Providence shore, historic Pomham Rock Lighthouse marks the eastern edge of the Providence River channel. Photo by Tom Croke

Conimicut Point Lighthouse guards the river’s entrance. Photo by Tom Croke

The Squantum Association, a private club founded in 1872, commands a majestic view of the water from the East Providence shore. Photo by Tom Croke

A two-person scull glides past a tanker docked along the river’s western bank. Photo by Tom Croke

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welcome hotel guests

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HawthorneHotel.com

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welcome hotel guests

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HawthorneHotel.com

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HawthorneHotel.com

Salem’s famed author,
welcome hotel guests