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August 26, 2024Boston Whaler 210 Vantage
August 27, 2024Welcome to Belfast
This venerable Penobscot Bay port has gained a steady following among recreational boaters looking for an alternative to Maine’s busier, touristy harbors.
BELFAST'S STORY
Becoming a standout amid the “star harbors” of Penobscot Bay may sound like a tall order, but Belfast is what many better-known destinations in Maine’s biggest bay once were: relaxed, accessible, relatively uncrowded, authentic and boater-friendly. With plenty of deep-water transient moorings available, even megayacht owners are charting a course to this 243-year-old city whose roots include a long tradition of blue-collar industry and commercial fishing.
“As you pass the abandoned light tower on Steels Ledge and head northwest into the confines of the Passagassawakeag River, it’s readily apparent that the Belfast waterfront is precious to this city of some 7,000 permanent residents. For example, there is no wall of condominiums separating the city from its estuary, unlike some other popular coastal locations. Instead, Belfast’s southwest shore is characterized by lush parks, historic sea captains’ homes, and the very popular Harbor Walk—a paved walking tail that skirts the waterfront and leads over a bridge spanning the Passagassawakeag.
“Boat enthusiasts in particular enjoy the Harbor Walk for its variety of perspectives on the harbor and its eclectic fleet of vessels—everything from tugboats to schooners. The public pathway encircles the harbor and takes strollers past Front Street Shipyard, which for any mariner is breathtaking in itself (it also offers a marina with slips and moorings).
“Harkening back to Belfast’s heritage as a major shipbuilding port, Front Street was established in 2011 specifically to service megayachts, several of which seem to be in residence on any given day. With the ability to lift and bring ashore vessels up to 200 feet long and weighing up to 480 tons, the company always has some fascinating project under way. Thus, it’s not unusual to see visiting boaters sitting for hours on Harbor Walk benches, watching Front Street workers labor on one magnificent yacht or another.
“It’s all in keeping with Belfast’s maritime history—and the primary reason the city boasts so many handsome old Federal, Greek Revival, and Italianate homes. As with many of Maine’s major ports, the 19th century marked a shipbuilding boom for Belfast, along with an upswing in shipping and the exporting of raw materials from the Pine Tree State.
“Today, Belfast continues to serve as home base for the Penobscot Bay ship pilots, who greet giant, world-traveling vessels far down the bay and guide them into nearby Searsport or up the Penobscot River. The pilot boats, along with tugs needed for docking ships safely at the terminals, are berthed along the Belfast waterfront, as they have been for generations.
“For anyone interested in more of Belfast’s varied past, there is the city’s Museum in the Streets. This ingenious and informative installation includes 30 “tour panels” strategically placed at historic sites all over town. Each panel includes a description of the significance of the site, as well as vintage photos of what once existed there. A map of the panel locations is available at the Chamber of Commerce office at the City Landing.
“If history is less important than shopping, Belfast can handle that preference. It’s a worthwhile, uphill walk from the harbor to the collection of shops selling everything from high-end clothing and antiques to the obligatory mug-and-tee-shirt outlet (only one) and three pretty good bookstores. Sprinkled amid the shops are restaurants that specialize in everything from upscale fusion cuisine to diner-style fare, and pretty much everything in between.
“Back on the sidewalks, it soon becomes obvious that Belfast hosts a vibrant local arts scene. It’s nearly impossible to wander the downtown area and not bump into at least one painter trying to capture a handsome Victorian home or perhaps the local charter schooner.
“Boaters are uniquely positioned to appreciate another of Belfast’s artistic touches. As you enter the harbor at half tide or lower, you’ll be greeted by four faces carved into otherwise submerged pilings. These are the Belfast “Muses,” an artist’s tribute to a city that never gave up on its waterfront.
“Given all the attractions, it’s hard to imagine why anyone would pass up a chance to visit a Penobscot Bay port where even the weather is more salubrious than its competitors. Because it’s located well inland and amid relatively slower and shallower waters than harbors farther down the bay, Belfast often remains fog-free when it’s socked in just a few miles farther south. During summer, the warm land and warmer waters often keep the fog from settling in—and even tempt visitors to go for a swim. A swim? In Penobscot Bay? Who would have thought it? But then again, who would have thought that Belfast would become a major boating destination?
BELFAST GALLERY
Written by Ken Textor
Ken has ranged the Maine coast by land and sea since the late 1970s. His writing has appeared in WoodenBoat, Cruising World, SAIL, Offshore, Northeast Boating, Points East, Sailing, Yachting, and more. You can find his books on Amazon.
Photographed by Joe Devenney
Joe has many regional and national magazines magazine credits. His images can be found on Getty Images. Joe along with his wife Mary are accomplished potters. Their work may be found at Devenney Pottery on Facebook.