Pilot Boat Runs Aground in Cape Cod Canal
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October 29, 2024Welcome to Provincetown
This well-protected harbor on the tip of Cape Cod has seen a lot of changes since the Pilgrims first visited in 1620, but modern-day boaters aren’t complaining,
as “P-town” now features a plethora of restaurants, galleries, stores, and access to the raw natural beauty of the Outer Cape.
PROVINCETOWN'S STORY
It’s fun to imagine what the hardy band of puritans who first visited the idyllic natural harbor of Provincetown back in 1620 would have thought of the place these days. What was once a desolate, low-lying expanse of dunes, scrub oak, poison ivy, and pitch pine surrounded by saltwater is now a bustling tourist destination and thriving artist community. Sure, the winter months can be quiet, but summer feels like a cacophonous, never-ending mardi gras, with drag queens patrolling commercial street amid noisy throngs of foreign tourists and family vacationers. Numerous restaurants, galleries, and boutiques now line the streets, alleys, and wharves that were once the sole domain of fishermen and whalers.
It’s easy to see why mariners have appreciated P-town long before it became known for its thriving art scene, tourism industry, and LGBTQ community. For one thing, the harbor offers excellent protection from the wind and seas in virtually all directions. Additionally, the approaches are deep and free of obstructions, and the inner harbor can easily accommodate large vessels.
Moorings and slips are available via the two main marinas—Provincetown Marina and Flyer’s—along with launch service and dinghy docks. However, be sure to call ahead for reservations, especially during the summer and early fall. Ice, fuel, and repair service are available as well.
Day-trip options from P-town include runs to Stellwagen Bank, the southwest tip of which lies a scant three miles offshore. Here you can view humpback, minke, and finback whales at close range (just be sure to stay 300 feet from the whales, as per federal law). Ocean sunfish, bluefin tuna, and basking sharks also gather over the bank to feed during the summer, when the surrounding waters teem with plankton and baitfish. Trips to nearby Wellfleet and Barnstable Harbors, to the south, are options, as well. Then there’s great fishing for numerous species, including haddock, cod, striped bass, bluefish, and bluefin tuna.
Of course, there are plenty of shoreside activities, sights, and events to keep you busy. You can climb to the top of the 252-foot-tall Pilgrim Monument (built in 1910) for a spectacular view of the Cape and surrounding waters. If you like eclectic stores, be sure to stop in at Marine Specialties, a P-town institution selling everything from mooring balls to fishnet stockings, located in an old fishing-net shop in the heart of Commercial Street.
The athletically inclined can rent a bike and ride through the dunes and pine forest just outside town, or visit one of the former lifesaving stations along the Outer Cape, such as the one at Race Point Light. If you like to walk, you can hike along the mile-long West End breakwater (actually a long stone dike), which was built in 1911 by the Army Corps of Engineers.
Cruises of the harbor are available through several companies, but kids will love the pirate ship cruises aboard Pirate Adventures. Nightlife abounds in town, with numerous cabaret performances each night during the summer and fall.
Speaking of fall, September and early October may be the best time to visit P-town by boat. The harbor is less crowded, and you’re more likely to find a mooring or slip on short notice. Also, the throngs of tourists will have ebbed, leaving you more room to explore the town. Lastly, the early-autumn weather can be fantastic!
PROVINCETOWN GALLERY
Written by Malerie Yolen-Cohen
Malerie is Co-Publisher of Northeast travel website GetawayMavens.com, and she is the author of the cross-country travel guide, Stay On Route 6; Your Guide to All 3562 Miles of Transcontinental Route 6. She has written for National Geographic Traveler, Ladies Home Journal, Yankee Magazine, Shape.com, Sierra Magazine, and dozens of other publications.
Photographed by Eric Brust-Akdemir
Eric is the publisher of Cape and Islands Magazine and the producer of “Coastal Lifestyle TV.”