Woods Hole

Welcome to Woods Hole

FOR THE MAJORITY OF FOLKS, WOODS HOLE IS A MERE WAY STATION, A PLACE TO KILL AN HOUR OR TWO WHILE WAITING FOR THE FERRY TO MARTHA’S VINEYARD. THAT’S TOO BAD, AS THIS CHARMING VILLAGE—PART OF THE TOWN OF FALMOUTH—IS WORTH GETTING TO KNOW MORE INTIMATELY. AND BOATERS ARE WELL POSITIONED TO DO JUST THAT.

Settled by Europeans in 1659, Woods Hole’s maritime past dates back to the early 1800s, when the village served as a whaling station. Between 1815 and 1860, at least 9 whalers tied up at Bar Neck Wharf, now the U.S. Navy building of the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution. Back then, Water Street was lined with businesses—cooperages, bakeries, candleworks—dedicated to the whaling industry and the fitting out of ships.

While whaling ports were certainly no perfumeries, Woods Hole entered an even more malodorous era in 1859, when a group of businessmen formed the Pacific Guano Company and built a huge factory that processed guano-based fertilizer on what is now Penzance Point. It was said that the noxious vapors carried by a westerly wind were so powerful they would cause the tide to run in the opposite direction.

MODERN TIMES

Today, Woods Hole is decidedly better smelling, especially if you happen to stand downwind of its many restaurants, most of which specialize in seafood. Among them is the venerable Captain Kidd’s on Eel Pond. The adjoining marina offers dockage to boating patrons, along with great water and sunset views. Another waterfront institution is the Landfall, which offers live entertainment and a festive bar scene overlooking the busy harbor.

Two other highly rated kids on the block are the Quicks Hole Tavern and Quicks Hole Tacqueria, which serve lunch, dinner and brunch, including creative tacos and sandwiches. They also offer a wide selection of wines, beers and cocktails. Looking to cool off with some ice cream and other frozen treats? Head for Jimmy’s, right around the corner from the ferry terminal.

SCIENCE CENTER

Of course, there’s more to explore in Woods Hole than its eateries. There are plenty of shops in and around the village center, but the main attraction is the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution. WHOI was founded in 1930 in what was already an established scientific research community, thanks in large part to Spencer Baird, the first commissioner of the U.S. Commission of Fish & Fisheries, who created a government headquarters in Woods Hole in 1871. WHOI researchers have long been at the forefront of ocean studies and exploration, and the world-renowned institution maintains a fleet of research vessels at its docks on Woods Hole Harbor.

Just down the street from WHOI is the small but no less interesting Woods Hole Science Aquarium. This kid-friendly spot has over 140 species of local marine critters on display, including some in touch tanks. You can even get a “behind the scenes” look at how the tanks are maintained.

Yet another local waypoint worth visiting is the Woods Hole Historical Museum, home to all kinds of interesting exhibits and artifacts relating to the village’s past. The intimate museum also maintains a collection of well-preserved small wooden boats and other nautical items from the past.

GETTING ASHORE

Ah, but how does a boater gain access this eclectic enclave of shops, restaurants and institutions? Admittedly, Woods Hole can be a tricky and intimidating place to visit by boat, given its swift currents, gauntlet of reefs and amount of boat traffic, which includes the New Bedford fast ferry and the frequent comings and goings of the hulking Vineyard ferries, not to mention the mosquito fleet of local skiff fishermen.

If you’ve never navigated Woods Hole before, it can be quite an experience. Indeed, one is often left to marvel at the courage of early mariners who did it under sail power alone. Good advice, particularly for sailors, is to make sure you have adequate auxiliary power and to travel at slack tide or with the tide. The current can run so fast here that some boats can’t make headway. Many get in trouble on the incoming tide, as they make the turn between “Broadway” and the “Strait”. If you don’t have enough power, you’ll get pushed onto Red Ledge.

EEL POND SECRETS

Once safely inside protected Great Harbor, small boats can be tied up for short periods at the public pier adjacent to the launch ramp at the end of Albatross Street. The other option is to head for Eel Pond. The narrow entrance to the pond (depth 7’) can be tricky to spot, but you’ll find it adjacent to the Landfall restaurant. The drawbridge over the inlet opens every half-hour during the summer, and you can tie up alongside the bulkhead while you wait.

Inside Eel Pond, you can try to arrange for a slip at Woods Hole Marine or Pinky’s Marina. Skiffs and dinghies can also be left at the town docks on the western side of the pond while you go ashore for a few hours. Anchoring is not allowed in Eel Pond.

If you have a larger vessel, check in with the folks at Woods Hole Marine to see if they have a mooring available inside Eel Pond or in Great Harbor. You can also anchor in Great Harbor, as long as you do not impede traffic in the fairway channel. Contact the harbormaster to be on the safe side.

No matter how you find your way into Woods Hole, it’s worth the effort. From science to seafood, there’s much to discover about this overlooked village brimming with Cape Cod charm.

Getting There
NOAA 13235, 13229, 13230

Riddled with ledges and swept by strong currents, Woods Hole is a notoriously tricky passage to navigate. It’s also incredibly busy, with boats of all sizes, plus massive ferries and other ships, plying the main channel. If you are unfamiliar with Woods Hole, time your trip to coincide with slack tide, and do not attempt to make the passage at night. Also, keep red buoys to starboard as you head from Vineyard Sound toward Buzzards Bay, all the way through the channel. Controlling depth in the channel is 11’.

Entering from Buzzards Bay is fairly straightforward, as there is plenty of deep water leading into the channel. Just remember to keep red buoys to port as you enter the channel from the Buzzards Bay side. Pick up the G “13” Fl G 4s Bell marking the northern entrance to Woods Hole and keep east of GC “11” and west of R “10” Fl R 4s as you enter the “Strait”. As you pass RN “6” and GC “7”, turn east toward the harbor. Keep in the middle of the channel, which is bordered closely by ledges and rocks. The channel forks as you split RN “4A” and GC “5”. If heading for Great Harbor or Eel Pond (see below), stay north of GR C “SB” and enter Great Harbor, passing first between Grassy Island and Red Ledge. (If continuing into Vineyard Sound, turn south-southeast at GR C “SB” and enter “Broadway” channel.)

If bound for Eel Pond, continue east-northeast after reaching RN “2”. You’ll find the pond entrance next to the Landfall restaurant. The drawbridge to the pond opens every half-hour in summer. Depth in the channel is 7’, with depths of 17’ to 20’ inside the pond.

When approaching Woods Hole from Vineyard Sound and points south, pick up the southwest channel between the G “1” gong and the R “2” Fl R 4s Bell (about a ¼-mile south of Great Ledge). From here you can head north toward the harbor. If heading through the passage and into Buzzards Bay, turn northwest along Broadway upon reaching G “5”.

When approaching Woods Hole from Nantucket Sound and Cape Cod, keep south of RN “20”, as some large, submerged rocks extend from Nobska Point. The rip here can also be quite rough. Pick up the southeast passage into Woods Hole between G “1” QG east of Coffin Rock and R “2” Fl R 2.5s. Steer northwest toward RN “6” south of Juniper Point. From here you can head toward RN “8” or pick up the Great Harbor ranges to the north.

Entering Eel Pond

To enter Eel Pond, call the Eel Pond Bridge on Channel 13 to ask for the bridge to open. Inbound vessels always get to enter Eel Pond before exiting boats can leave, so don’t crowd the channel while you wait to exit. A red and green traffic light for boats will let you know when it is your turn. The bridge opens on the top of the hour and bottom of the hour as long as a request is made. Once you are settled, feel free to stop by the bridge-tender’s shack for directions or local information.

Harbormaster
(508) 457-2550

Dockage, Moorings & Service

Woods Hole Marine (508) 540-2402
Transient slips and guest moorings inside Eel Pond and in Great Harbor. Slip services include shore power, ice, showers, repair and trash removal.

Pinky’s Marina (508) 540-2310
Transient slips to 45’ on Eel Pond, as well as showers, shore power and ice.

Woods Hole Yacht Club (508) 548-9205
Transient moorings sometimes available.

R&R Marine (508) 548-6976
Marine supplies, bait and tackle, charter trips and nautical gifts.

Fuel
Gas and diesel are available in Falmouth Inner Harbor, 2 miles east of Woods Hole.

Anchorages
Anchoring is possible in Great Harbor, northwest of the National Marine Fisheries Service wharf, although boaters should check with the harbormaster first and make sure they are not impeding fairway traffic. The bottom is fair holding ground. Anchoring is not allowed in Little Harbor or Eel Pond. Another nearby option is protected Hadley Harbor, tucked between Uncatena Island and Nonamesset Island, on the Elizabeth Islands side of Woods Hole.

Launch Ramps

A concrete launch ramp is located next to the Woods Hole Science Aquarium, although street parking is limited at best. A better bet is the large state ramp in Falmouth Inner Harbor or the ramp in West Falmouth Harbor.

Getting Around
Corner Cycle (508) 540-4195

Where to Eat

Captain Kidd (508) 548-8563
Venerable, low-key restaurant on Eel Pond. Limited dockage for boating patrons.

Quicks Hole Tavern (508) 495-0048
Creative sandwiches, along with a wide selection of wines, beer, ale and cocktails.

Quicks Hole Tacqueria (508) 495-0792
Baja California surfer hangout meets New England clam shack. Can you say lobster tacos? Open seasonally.

Shucker’s Raw Bar (508) 540-3850
Casual Eel Pond dock-and-dine. Serves seafood, chicken and steak dishes.

The Landfall (508) 548-1758
Large, popular restaurant overlooking the harbor. Lively bar scene.

Fishmonger Café (508) 540-5376
Village mainstay next to the Eel Pond inlet. Specializes in fresh seafood with a Mediterranean flair. Serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, including vegetarian dishes.

Provisions
Wood Hole Market (508) 540-4792
Small but well-stocked market on Water Street.

Things to See & Do

Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, (508) 289-2252
World-renowned marine science facility. Offers walking tours from its information office at 93 Water Street.

Woods Hole Science Aquarium (508) 495-2001
Over 140 species of local marine life can be viewed—and sometimes touched—at this small but interesting aquarium at the end of Water Street.

Woods Hole Historical Museum (508) 548-7270
Intimate museum containing exhibits and information on the village’s rich history. Also maintains a small collection of old wooden boats and other marine-related artifacts.

Shining Sea Bikeway
Beautiful bike path stretching over 10 miles from Woods Hole to North Falmouth. Much of the path runs along the shores of Buzzards Bay.

Marine Biological Laboratory (508) 548-3705
Drop by the MBL visitor’s center on Water Street to learn about the lab’s research in the field of marine biology.

Buzzards Bay Coalition Visitor’s Center (508) 540-6222
Next to the Landfall restaurant, the BBC Visitor’s Center is stocked with interactive exhibits that excite adults and children alike. Get up close and personal with sea stars, hermit crabs, whelks and bay scallops in the center’s touch tank.

Where to Stay

Woods Hole Inn (508) 495-0248

Woods Hole Passage B&B (508) 548-9575

General Information

Woods Hole: A Village on Cape Cod