For many, Woods Hole is simply a layover, a place to pass an hour or two while awaiting the ferry to Martha’s Vineyard. But that’s a shame, because this charming village—part of the town of Falmouth—is truly worth exploring more deeply. And boaters, in particular, are perfectly positioned to do just that.
Originally settled by Europeans in 1659, Woods Hole’s rich maritime history began in the early 1800s as a bustling whaling station. From 1815 to 1860, at least nine whalers docked at Bar Neck Wharf, now home to the U.S. Navy building of the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution. Back then, Water Street buzzed with businesses—cooperages, bakeries, and candleworks—all dedicated to supporting the whaling industry and outfitting ships.
In 1859, Woods Hole entered an even more fragrant (or perhaps, less fragrant) era when the Pacific Guano Company built a massive factory on what is now Penzance Point. This facility processed guano-based fertilizer, and it was said that the noxious fumes carried by a westerly wind were so potent they could cause the tide to run in the opposite direction!
Modern Times
Today, Woods Hole is decidedly better smelling, especially if you happen to catch a whiff from its many restaurants, most of which specialize in fresh seafood. Among them is the venerable Captain Kidd’s on Eel Pond. Its adjoining marina offers dockage for boating patrons, along with fantastic water and sunset views. Another waterfront institution is The Landfall, which offers live entertainment and a lively bar scene overlooking the busy harbor.
Two other highly-rated spots are the Quicks Hole Tavern and Quicks Hole Taqueria. They serve lunch, dinner, and brunch, including creative tacos and sandwiches, alongside a wide selection of wines, beers, and cocktails. Looking to cool off with some ice cream and other frozen treats? Head to Jimmy’s, right around the corner from the ferry terminal.
Science Center
Of course, there’s more to explore in Woods Hole than just its eateries. You’ll find plenty of shops in and around the village center, but the main attraction is the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution (WHOI). WHOI was founded in 1930 within an already established scientific research community, largely thanks to Spencer Baird, the first commissioner of the U.S. Commission of Fish & Fisheries, who set up a government headquarters in Woods Hole in 1871. WHOI researchers have long been at the forefront of ocean studies and exploration, and this world-renowned institution maintains a fleet of research vessels at its docks on Woods Hole Harbor.
Just down the street from WHOI is the small but equally interesting Woods Hole Science Aquarium. This kid-friendly spot boasts over 140 species of local marine critters on display, including some in touch tanks. You can even get a “behind the scenes” look at how the tanks are maintained.
Another local waypoint worth visiting is the Woods Hole Historical Museum, home to all sorts of intriguing exhibits and artifacts related to the village’s past. This intimate museum also maintains a collection of well-preserved small wooden boats and other nautical items.
Getting Ashore
Ah, but how does a boater gain access to this eclectic enclave of shops, restaurants, and institutions? Admittedly, Woods Hole can be a tricky and intimidating place to visit by boat, given its swift currents, gauntlet of reefs, and heavy boat traffic. This includes the New Bedford fast ferry and the frequent comings and goings of the hulking Vineyard ferries, not to mention the “mosquito fleet” of local skiff fishermen.
If you’ve never navigated Woods Hole before, it can be quite an experience. Indeed, one often marvels at the courage of early mariners who did it under sail power alone. Good advice, particularly for sailors, is to ensure you have adequate auxiliary power and to travel at slack tide or with the tide. The current can run so fast here that some boats simply can’t make headway. Many get into trouble on the incoming tide, as they make the turn between “Broadway” and the “Strait.” If you don’t have enough power, you’ll get pushed onto Red Ledge.
Eel Pond Secrets
Once safely inside protected Great Harbor, small boats can be tied up for short periods at the public pier adjacent to the launch ramp at the end of Albatross Street. The other option is to head for Eel Pond. The narrow entrance to the pond (depth 7′) can be tricky to spot, but you’ll find it adjacent to The Landfall restaurant. The drawbridge over the inlet opens every half-hour during the summer, and you can tie up alongside the bulkhead while you wait.
Inside Eel Pond, you can try to arrange for a slip at Woods Hole Marine or Pinky’s Marina. Skiffs and dinghies can also be left at the town docks on the western side of the pond while you go ashore for a few hours. Anchoring is not allowed in Eel Pond.
If you have a larger vessel, check in with the folks at Woods Hole Marine to see if they have a mooring available inside Eel Pond or in Great Harbor. You can also anchor in Great Harbor, as long as you do not impede traffic in the fairway channel. Contact the harbormaster to be on the safe side.
No matter how you find your way into Woods Hole, it’s worth the effort. From science to seafood, there’s much to discover about this overlooked village brimming with Cape Cod charm.
Getting There
NOAA Charts: 13235, 13229, 13230
Riddled with ledges and swept by strong currents, Woods Hole is a notoriously tricky passage to navigate. It’s also incredibly busy, with boats of all sizes, plus massive ferries and other ships, plying the main channel. If you are unfamiliar with Woods Hole, time your trip to coincide with slack tide, and do not attempt to make the passage at night. Also, keep red buoys to starboard as you head from Vineyard Sound toward Buzzards Bay, all the way through the channel. The controlling depth in the channel is 11′.
Entering from Buzzards Bay
Entering from Buzzards Bay is fairly straightforward, as there is plenty of deep water leading into the channel. Just remember to keep red buoys to port as you enter the channel from the Buzzards Bay side. Pick up the G “13” Fl G 4s Bell marking the northern entrance to Woods Hole and keep east of GC “11” and west of R “10” Fl R 4s as you enter the “Strait.” As you pass RN “6” and GC “7”, turn east toward the harbor. Keep in the middle of the channel, which is bordered closely by ledges and rocks. The channel forks as you split RN “4A” and GC “5”.
If heading for Great Harbor or Eel Pond, stay north of GR C “SB” and enter Great Harbor, passing first between Grassy Island and Red Ledge. (If continuing into Vineyard Sound, turn south-southeast at GR C “SB” and enter “Broadway” channel.)
If bound for Eel Pond, continue east-northeast after reaching RN “2”. You’ll find the pond entrance next to The Landfall restaurant. The drawbridge to the pond opens every half-hour in summer. Depth in the channel is 7′, with depths of 17′ to 20′ inside the pond.
Approaching from Vineyard Sound and South
When approaching Woods Hole from Vineyard Sound and points south, pick up the southwest channel between the G “1” gong and the R “2” Fl R 4s Bell (about a ¼-mile south of Great Ledge). From here you can head north toward the harbor. If heading through the passage and into Buzzards Bay, turn northwest along Broadway upon reaching G “5”.
Approaching from Nantucket Sound and Cape Cod
When approaching Woods Hole from Nantucket Sound and Cape Cod, keep south of RN “20”, as some large, submerged rocks extend from Nobska Point. The rip here can also be quite rough. Pick up the southeast passage into Woods Hole between G “1” QG east of Coffin Rock and R “2” Fl R 2.5s. Steer northwest toward RN “6” south of Juniper Point. From here you can head toward RN “8” or pick up the Great Harbor ranges to the north.
Entering Eel Pond
To enter Eel Pond, call the Eel Pond Bridge on Channel 13 to request the bridge to open. Inbound vessels always get to enter Eel Pond before exiting boats can leave, so don’t crowd the channel while you wait to exit. A red and green traffic light for boats will let you know when it is your turn. The bridge opens on the top of the hour and bottom of the hour as long as a request is made. Once you are settled, feel free to stop by the bridge-tender’s shack for directions or local information.
Harbormaster
- Phone: (508) 457-2550
Dockage, Moorings & Service
- Woods Hole Marine (508) 540-2402
- Transient slips and guest moorings inside Eel Pond and in Great Harbor. Slip services include shore power, ice, showers, repair, and trash removal.
- Pinky’s Marina (508) 540-2310
- Transient slips to 45′ on Eel Pond, as well as showers, shore power, and ice.
- Woods Hole Yacht Club (508) 548-9205
- Transient moorings sometimes available.
- R&R Marine (508) 548-6976
- Marine supplies, bait and tackle, charter trips, and nautical gifts.
Fuel
Gas and diesel are available in Falmouth Inner Harbor, 2 miles east of Woods Hole.
Anchorages
Anchoring is possible in Great Harbor, northwest of the National Marine Fisheries Service wharf, although boaters should check with the harbormaster first and make sure they are not impeding fairway traffic. The bottom is fair holding ground. Anchoring is not allowed in Little Harbor or Eel Pond. Another nearby option is protected Hadley Harbor, tucked between Uncatena Island and Nonamesset Island, on the Elizabeth Islands side of Woods Hole.
Launch Ramps
A concrete launch ramp is located next to the Woods Hole Science Aquarium, although street parking is limited at best. A better bet is the large state ramp in Falmouth Inner Harbor or the ramp in West Falmouth Harbor.
Getting Around
- Corner Cycle (508) 540-4195
Where to Eat
- Captain Kidd (508) 548-8563
- Venerable, low-key restaurant on Eel Pond. Limited dockage for boating patrons.
- Quicks Hole Tavern (508) 495-0048
- Creative sandwiches, along with a wide selection of wines, beer, ale, and cocktails.
- Quicks Hole Taqueria (508) 495-0792
- Baja California surfer hangout meets New England clam shack. Can you say lobster tacos? Open seasonally.
- Shucker’s Raw Bar (508) 540-3850
- Casual Eel Pond dock-and-dine. Serves seafood, chicken, and steak dishes.
- The Landfall (508) 548-1758
- Large, popular restaurant overlooking the harbor. Lively bar scene.
- Fishmonger Café (508) 540-5376
- Village mainstay next to the Eel Pond inlet. Specializes in fresh seafood with a Mediterranean flair. Serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, including vegetarian dishes.
Provisions
- Woods Hole Market (508) 540-4792
- Small but well-stocked market on Water Street.
Things to See & Do
- Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution (WHOI) (508) 289-2252
- World-renowned marine science facility. Offers walking tours from its information office at 93 Water Street.
- Woods Hole Science Aquarium (508) 495-2001
- Over 140 species of local marine life can be viewed—and sometimes touched—at this small but interesting aquarium at the end of Water Street.
- Woods Hole Historical Museum (508) 548-7270
- Intimate museum containing exhibits and information on the village’s rich history. Also maintains a small collection of old wooden boats and other marine-related artifacts.
- Shining Sea Bikeway
- Beautiful bike path stretching over 10 miles from Woods Hole to North Falmouth. Much of the path runs along the shores of Buzzards Bay.
- Marine Biological Laboratory (MBL) (508) 548-3705
- Drop by the MBL visitor’s center on Water Street to learn about the lab’s research in the field of marine biology.
- Buzzards Bay Coalition Visitor’s Center (508) 540-6222
- Next to The Landfall restaurant, the BBC Visitor’s Center is stocked with interactive exhibits that excite adults and children alike. Get up close and personal with sea stars, hermit crabs, whelks, and bay scallops in the center’s touch tank.
Where to Stay
- Woods Hole Inn (508) 495-0248
Woods Hole Passage B&B (508) 548-9575
Woods Hole: A Village on Cape Cod