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June 25, 2024Archer’s on the Pier Rockland ME
June 26, 2024Welcome to East Greenwich
East Greenwich is one of New England’s best-kept secrets. One of the oldest towns in Rhode Island, it lays claim to being the birthplace of the American Navy. It features a large number of marinas and restaurants for boaters to enjoy and has plenty of beautiful places to drop a hook.
EAST GREENWICH'S STORY
As a cruising destination, East Greenwich may not compete with the likes of Newport, Nantucket or Block Island, but those who know the local waters and watering holes of this venerable Rhode Island town are just fine with that. Indeed, many would like to see East Greenwich and Greenwich Bay as a whole remain one of New England’s best-kept secrets.
Incorporated in 1677, East Greenwich is the eighth oldest town in Rhode Island and boasts a maritime history dating back to before the Revolutionary War. In fact, many residents tout their town as the official birthplace of the American Navy. In June 1775, the Rhode Island General Assembly passed a resolution that created the first formal, governmentally commissioned navy in the Western Hemisphere. Of course, a number of other cities and towns along the eastern seaboard also claim early ties to this branch of the U.S. military, but none can boast specific government authorization at such an early date.
Tied to the Water
Navy legacy aside, East Greenwich has long been an ideal place to visit by water. It boasts a well-protected harbor that once received trade ships from around the world and provided safe haven to local fishermen. In the 1800s, local industry flourished with textile manufacturing and shipbuilding, but the town always maintained close ties to fertile Narragansett Bay and the estuary’s abundant natural resources. Shellfishing really took off after the Civil War, with local fishermen capitalizing on the abundance of scallops and oysters that once filled the bay’s shallow, plankton-rich waters.
By 1877, East Greenwich was known as “the scallop capital of Rhode Island.” Fishing shacks built on pilings lined the waterfront in a solid row along Greenwich Cove, earning it the name “Scallop Town.” Today, a park along the cove pays homage to the once-thriving community. While scalloping and oystering declined in the early to mid-20th Century, East Greenwich continues to support a fleet of independent quahog harvesters, many based in Greenwich Cove and nearby Apponaug Cove.
Down by the Bay
These days, Greenwich Bay and East Greenwich welcome recreational boaters with a surprisingly long list of marinas and restaurants, as well as some pretty cool spots to simply drop the hook and relax. One is Goddard State Park, which occupies a peninsula that forms the southern shore of the bay. With your boat secured just offshore, you can swim, wade, row or paddle to the beach and access the park’s hiking trails, nature center, restrooms and public golf course. Just mind the rocky shallows extending from Sally Rock Point to GC “5.”
Meanwhile, paddlers and small-boaters will find numerous places to launch and explore the quiet backwaters, such as Apponaug Cove, the Potowomut River, Greenwich Cove and Buttonwoods Cove. There’s good fishing here, too, especially in the late spring and fall. Indeed, early fall is a wonderful time to visit the area, as the weather is often ideal and there is less boating traffic.
A town launch near the head of Greenwich Cove affords free access for trailer-boaters and a decent amount of parking. Another free launch facility is located on the opposite side of the cove, at Goddard State Park. This launch site was dredged and renovated in early 2016, and features a two-lane ramp with tie-up float and parking.
Mucho Marinas
If you’re looking for a place to keep your boat for a few days (or the entire season), East Greenwich and neighboring Warwick are home to no fewer than 10 marinas, most offering transient slips and moorings, and a few with onsite restaurants. A short walk from the waterfront brings you to the downtown area, where you’ll find even more dining options, as well as interesting shops, historic sites and places to restock the galley or grog locker. You can even catch a concert, comedy show or film at the town’s restored, circa-1926 theater. Also, it’s worth noting that East Greenwich is a 10-minute cab ride from Green Airport in Warwick, making it easy to pick up and drop off guests visiting from out of town.
Boaters who use East Greenwich as a base for the season or a weekend will find a host of daytrip destinations to explore. The town’s location mid-way on the western shore of Narragansett Bay puts it within easy striking distance of such popular ports as Bristol, Jamestown, Wickford and, yes, even Newport. So it seems there’s a lot to recommend this small but salty town after all.
EAST GREENWICH GALLERY
Written by Tom Richardson
A Massachusetts native and past editor of New England Boating & Fishing, Tom has spent time working for Salt Water Sportsman, Offshore Magazine and was a founder of BoatingLocal. You can now find Tom as the Host, Executive Producer at Explore New England TV.
Photographed by Andrea Zimmermann
Andrea is a freelance photographer and journalist. She was a feature writer for the Newtown Bee before becoming a freelance journalist writing for the New York Times Connecticut Weekly section. She is also the author of several history books and works of fiction. You can find out more about her at her website, apzimmermann.com.