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Explore the Isles of Shoals
Located just five nautical miles off the rugged coastlines of New Hampshire and southern Maine, the Isles of Shoals are a great boating destination and a world unto themselves.
On a calm summer day, the islands are easily reachable from Newburyport, Massachusetts; Kittery and York, Maine; or Portsmouth, Hampton, and Rye, New Hampshire, making them a great day trip for boaters who launch or keep their boats in these ports.
The archipelago consists of nine little islands clustered off the coast and divided between Maine and New Hampshire. They were first settled by fishermen in the 16th century and were later visited by many notorious pirates.
Only a handful of people inhabit these rugged islands nowadays, but in the past it was a major destination for wealthy 19th-century Americans, many of whom stayed at the Oceanic Hotel on Star Island. Today the entire island and hotel are owned and operated by the Star Island Corporation. Visiting boaters are welcome to visit Star Island and the hotel via a public dinghy dock.
Navigation, Moorings, and Anchorages
When approaching the Isles from the north, boaters should be careful of the unmarked rocks surrounding Duck Island. From seaward, steer clear of Anderson Ledge, which is buoyed and marked by a post. Just to the north, and off the direct course, lies unmarked Cedar Ledge. Otherwise, major hazards to navigation are well marked, and the lighthouse on White Island is easy to see. However, always be prepared for fog, which is common here all season.
Gosport Harbor, which is bounded by Star, Cedar, Appledore and Smuttynose Islands, is the only viable anchorage. Most of the moorings in the harbor belong to yacht clubs in Portsmouth, New Hampshire. If you visit during the shoulder seasons you might be able to borrow one, but be ready to vacate if the owner arrives.
Boaters who dinghy to the beach or to one of the fixed jetties should be aware that the tidal range is just under 10 feet during spring tides (tides are only 2 minutes off Portland, Maine). Currents are weak in the anchorage, but can be fairly strong in the cuts between islands.
The bottom here is mostly hard ledge and notoriously poor holding ground, so boaters shouldn’t leave their boat unattended when anchoring in windy conditions. A stone breakwater fills the gaps between Smuttynose, Cedar, and Star Islands, giving protection from easterly winds and seas. The west and northwest corners are unprotected, however, making the harbor an uncomfortable proposition in winds from these directions.
The Isles have no fuel or marine facilities, so powerboaters should make sure to have plenty of fuel to get home. There is also no harbormaster. Boaters with questions should contact the New Hampshire Director of Ports at (603) 436-8500.
Visiting the Isles of Shoals
Boaters arriving by dinghy can land at a small public dock on Star Island, where visitors can walk the trails, tour the historic Oceanic Hotel, browse the gift shop, or enjoy meals in the hotel dining room (12:30 p.m. and 6:30 p.m., with advance arrangements).
On Appledore Island, the Shoals Marine Laboratory, jointly operated by Cornell and the University of New Hampshire, offers tours and educational programs. Visitors can pick up a trail map and explore the island’s unique coastal ecology on their own.
Smuttynose Island is another highlight. Visitors can take trails to explore the Haley family cemetery, old sailors’ graves, a restored fisherman’s cottage, and Maren’s Rock.
History buffs can learn more about the Isles through the Isles of Shoals Historical and Research Association, which offers resources and fascinating artifacts from the island’s past.
A great way to see the islands is a trip with the Isles of Shoals Steamship Company, which runs sightseeing, wedding and dinner trips, and educational tours from Portsmouth to the Isles.
Essentials
There are no restaurants or grocery stores on the islands, so make sure to stock up on food and water before you travel to the Isles of Shoals.
Getting around the island is by foot only. While walking the many trails on the islands, make sure to avoid poison ivy.
Written by Dan Mathers
Dan is the editor of New England Boating & Fishing and the former associate editor for Offshore Magazine. His freelance work has appeared in Backpacker, Adirondack Life, Cape Cod Life, South Shore Living, and many other publications. Dan loves exploring the New England outdoors. He enjoys paddling, camping, hiking, and running ultramarathons.
Photography by Scott Goodwin
Scott is an award-winning Boston based commercial photographer with over twenty-five years of experience. He has shot underwater to aerial and just about everything in between. Some of his clients include Timberland, Sperry, Offshore Magazine, New England Boating, BJ’s Wholesale Club, Dockers, Northeastern, Houghton Mifflin and many more. His website is ScottGoodwin.com.