Portland Story
June 12, 2024Onset Bay Story
June 19, 2024Welcome to Salem
Salem brews a salty cauldron of maritime adventure and historical intrigue. Boaters can explore the scenic harbor, enjoy sailing tours, or dock to visit the famed House of the Seven Gables. With its rich witchcraft history, waterfront museums, and ghost tours, Salem offers a unique blend of spooky fun and nautical charm, making it a captivating destination for both boaters and tourists.
SALEM'S STORY
The historic seaport of Salem, on the North Shore of Massachusetts, is best known as the site of the infamous “witch trials” of the late 1600s. But boaters will find a lot more to love about the city than its past. Upon entering the harbor from Salem Sound, you’ll see Winter Island to starboard. Once home to a military installation, the island is now a marine recreational park featuring seasonal dinghy and rack storage, an excellent all-tide boat ramp, RV and tent camping, scenic picnic areas, and the Fort Pickering Lighthouse.
Next to the power plant is the Salem Harbor ferry terminal and dock, providing high-speed shuttle service to and from Boston Harbor. The dock also accommodates small cruise ships and other commercial vessels.
When one thinks of Salem, those witches usually come to mind, mostly thanks to the “witch trials” of the late 1600s but also due to a thriving paranormal subculture there. This seaside city offers more good magic than bad. Salem is teeming with maritime history and Colonial culture—and it’s all within easy reach of boaters arriving from the north or south.
The entrance to Salem Harbor is approximately 16 nautical miles from Boston Harbor and 10 nautical miles west of Gloucester. Approach carefully, though, for these waters are riddled with rocks and ledges. The most direct route is through Salem Channel, which begins east of Newcomb Ledge. The dredged ship channel has a minimum depth of 29 feet and is marked by lighted buoys. It runs west-northwest between Bakers and Misery Islands before turning southwest near the Beverly shore and into the harbor, leading modern mariners to marvel at how huge sailing ships managed to access this bustling port.
The end of the deep-water channel lies just behind the massive power station, which occupies 65 acres of the Salem waterfront. Depths in the central portion of the harbor range 7 to 15 feet, but shallow quickly once you leave the channel.
Pickering Wharf is the most centrally located marina and can accommodate vessels up to 120 feet. It has 30- and 50-amp electrical service, telephone and cable, WiFi, showers and laundry facilities. It will also try to arrange dockage for restaurant patrons arriving by water.
The wharf itself is home to shops, restaurants, and antiques galleries. Finz Restaurant is a popular spot, known for its raw bar, wine list, and hip crowd. If you want to dine there, contact Pickering Wharf Marina or the harbormaster to inquire about short-term tie-up nearby. If you’re lucky, you may be able to grab a spot along the dock in front of the restaurant.
For a jolt of morning coffee, Jaho (three locations in Salem) serves organic fair-trade java and teas, gourmet sandwiches and artisan gelato made fresh on the premises. If you don’t feel like walking, the Salem Trolley stops at the wharf and makes a loop through most of the historic areas.
Safe Harbor Hawthorne Cove Marina is slightly farther from downtown and accommodates boats up to 65 feet. The marina is adjacent to the House of the Seven Gables, which was built in 1668 and is the oldest surviving 17th century wooden mansion in New England. The house inspired Nathaniel Hawthorne’s classic novel of the same name, and Hawthorne’s birthplace is just steps away.
A bit farther off the beaten path is Fred J. Dion Yacht Yard, tucked away in the southwest corner of the harbor. This small, historic boatyard, well known for repair and service, is about a mile from downtown and offers 18 slips and six moorings reserved for visitors.
Public docks are located at Winter Island Recreational Park, at the mouth of the harbor, at the Willows Pier in Salem Willows Park, and at the Congress Street Bridge, next to Pickering Wharf. All have a 20-minute tie-up limit, strictly enforced, so boaters wishing to overnight or spend a few hours in town will need to arrange a mooring or slip through one of the aforementioned marinas.
Around Town
Other shore-side attractions worth visiting include the Peabody Essex Museum, the oldest continuously operating museum in the country, where you can explore 200 years of extraordinary art, architecture and culture. Another historic landmark just steps from the waterfront is the Salem Custom House, where Nathaniel Hawthorne worked as a surveyor in the 1840s. Tours are available.
The Salem Maritime National Historic Site offers tours of historic buildings and the replica Tall Ship Friendship. Visit the working sail loft to watch shipwrights craft authentic nautical parts.
At the entrance to the harbor, Winter Island Park is home to Fort Pickering and “Camp Waikiki,” the remains of an air base used during World War II.
Of course, no trip to Salem would be complete without taking in a bit of witch lore, and there’s plenty of that to go around in the form of the Salem Witch Museum, the Witch Dungeon Museum, the Witch History Museum, the Witch House and Dracula’s Castle.
SALEM GALLERY
Written Rob Duca
Rob brings more than 40 years of professional journalism experience to New England Boating & Fishing. His vast experience has taken him to Newport This WeeK, New England Golf & Leasure, Cape Cod Times for over 26 years. He has won more than 35 national and regional writing awards, and his work has appeared in Sports Illustrated, the Boston Globe, Yankee magazine, Cape Cod Life and many other print and online publications.
Photographed by Tom Richardson
A Massachusetts native and past editor of New England Boating & Fishing, Tom has spent time working for Salt Water Sportsman, Offshore Magazine and was a founder of BoatingLocal. You can now find Tom as the Host, Executive Producer at Explore New England TV.