“Chester is only about 10 miles from Long Island Sound, or roughly 45 minutes. However, it could take more than a couple of hours to get here because the views are so breathtaking!” So says impressionist painter Leif Nilsson, who makes his home in this picturesque village on the Connecticut River.

Gillette Castle on the Haddam side of the river is a local landmark.

Nilsson grew up in nearby Old Lyme—considered the birthplace of American Impressionism—and was forever inspired by its unique light. He studied art all over the world before returning to the area with his wife, photographer Caryn B. Davis, to open their gallery and make their home in the former Chester Hotel in the center of town. The two know Chester and its waters intimately, and there’s no place else they’d rather be.

RUNNING THE RIVER

Getting to the shores of Chester by boat is pretty straightforward, although you still need to pay attention to the channel markers as you head up or down the Connecticut River. More than one boater has been mesmerized by the scenery— lush, undeveloped banks teeming with birdlife—and found himself hard aground on one of the river’s sandbars, which can shift after large storms and heavy rain. Keep your charts updated and always reference the channel buoys.

There are four marinas in Chester, all located within two miles of the downtown area. On Chester Creek, which meets the Connecticut opposite buoy GC “37,” is Chester Point Marina, followed by Castle Marina and Hays Haven Marina. From these marinas, you can walk or even row or paddle up Chester and Pattaconk creeks to reach the downtown area, but a bicycle makes the trip much shorter.

About a mile north of Chester Creek, just above the Hadlyme Ferry, is Chester Boat Basin, its well-groomed grounds decorated with flowers. Chester Boat Basin features a pool, a small beach, complimentary gas grills and picnic tables, and offers a free shuttle to town.

ARTIST’S HAVEN

You might find local artist Leif Nilsson on the river at work.

As Nilsson and Davis well know, Chester has a magnetic pull on artistic types. Contemporary painter Sol LeWitt, whose work can be found in most world-class modern art museums, made his home in Chester, and many others have followed his lead. This makes Chester the perfect place to pick up handcrafted jewelry, paintings, clothing and crafts directly from the artist, for a lot less than you’d pay in a large city.

Chester Village is bisected by Main Street, which is lined with galleries, restaurants and boutiques—and not a franchise among them. At Frock, you may find clothing designers Trish Ginter or Laura Williams at the cutting board of their funky store, which carries one-of-a-kind tops, skirts and dresses at a fraction of what you’d pay in SoHo. At Elle Design Furniture, the home accessories—some made from salvaged materials—are both unique and moderately priced. You’ll stumble upon items you won’t find elsewhere, such as “guilt-free vegan antlers.”  The Connecticut River Artisans Center on Water Street offers a great selection of jewelry and crafts, all handmade by some of the best artisans in the valley.

The heart of Chester is Simon’s Market, a family-owned breakfast-sandwich gift shop that has become the de facto meeting place for locals.  “A lot of great ideas that have been implemented in town are dreamed up here,” one resident declares. Along with coffee and Morning Glory muffins, you can pick up the “cat book of the week,” pour-your-own olive oil and unique curios.

You can also stock up on provisions at the Wheatmarket, which carries specialty soft drinks such as Swedish Kristall Pear Soda and Virgil’s Root Beer, along with a variety of cheeses, crackers, chips, oils, jams, lobster bisque, creative sandwiches and other upscale delights for your onboard picnic or dinner.

FINE DINING

Or stay for dinner. Chester abounds with creative eateries, including the popular River Tavern, where owner and head chef Jonathan Rapp is credited with starting Connecticut’s farm-totable trend. Polished wood floors in a room fit for yoga classes, a teak-and-zinc bar lined by bright red stools and vibrant local art set the stage for tantalizingly fresh cuisine.

After dinner, if you’re in the mood for a Dogfish Head, Avalanche Ale or Sebago Simmer Down, join the jolly crowd at the Pattaconk 1850 Bar and Grill, where craft-brew aficionados often throng the outside patio until 2:00 a.m.

Everyone’s favorite summer treat.

With the Pattaconk just across the street from their gallery/ home, Nilsson and Davis take the commotion in stride. And once a month, in the warmer season, they bring it home for their own “Concerts in the Garden.” The couple has turned their backyard into an intimate amphitheater, where transient boaters and other visitors are welcome to enjoy live music played by local bands.

RIVER RECEPTIONS

Back on the river, there is plenty to keep you anchored, chief among them a visit to magical Selden Creek, just opposite the Chester shore. It’s the type of hidden spot those around Chester would rather safeguard as an undisclosed location. Stately sycamores, oaks, cedars, wild rice and cattails line the narrow ribbon of water that flows behind Selden Island. The average depth inside the creek is three feet, so even midsized boats can experience the beauty of this special, peaceful place.

Camping is allowed at Selden Neck State Park, at one of four rustic sites along the shoreline. You’ll need to contact the state in writing to make a reservation, but it can be quite an experience. At the very least, the island is worth visiting for an impromptu picnic or to wander the trails that wind through parts of the wooded interior, where you’ll find the remains of an old quarry and great views of the river.

If you get hungry, stop in at the Blue Oar, just upstream on the Haddam side of the river. It’s one of the few dock-and-dine restaurants on the Connecticut. The Oar serves burgers and other basic grilled and fried fare, and it’s strictly BYOB.

And what of the fishing? Striped bass, bluefish and other saltwater species can be taken in the lower Connecticut all season, and largemouth bass, pike and pickerel are available north of Chester. However, the species that seems to be taking the local angling scene by storm is carp. These golden-flanked fish are often seen rolling on the river’s surface and can weigh over 30 pounds. Despite their bottom-feeding disposition, catching and landing them demands certain prowess.

Just one more surprise in a village that’s full of them!